thursday

still no photos from me
this one was taken north of here, but we had the same conditions this morning,
wasn't breaking at home, so Todd and I drove up to Buxton early again,
it was glassy, and looked pretty good, bigger than home, but not too much
there was a tight pack at the peak on the jetty
then a big open gap, then another another bigger pack off to the south,
I paddled out pretty easily in the gap, which I figured must be a channel, otherwise, why wouldn't guys be sitting in it catching waves.

the guys on the peak were pretty much getting tubed on every drop-in, then whipping off 2 or 3 off the tops, and an occasional air to end it. an older, bald longboarder was catching them way outside and riding them all the way in for about 100 yards.
the waves weren't as good off to the south for the big pack, and not too much was coming through the channel
still, I stayed in the gap, content to just sit there and wait as I drifted closer to the peak and jetty.
after a few unremarkable rides, a beauty comes right to me. no one else was close enough to chase it, sort of a peaky A-frame just for me. A niice long right, toward the jetty with a small turn or two on the open face. I couldn't believe I caught a good wave in that crowd. As I paddled back out, Todd just shook his head, laughed, and said, "....man, that thing came right at you....". The end of that wave put me much closer to the peak, so I kinda just hung out there for a while to see if something else would come my way and tried to stay outtta the way of the more skilled crew.

nice ones were being ridden all around me and I chased a few and got in the way a couple times too. I found myself sitting inside some of the shortboarders, which usually isn't smart, especially close to the peak.
then another beaut comes right at me, too far inside for several other guys who chased it, and it was all me again. another nice long right, as I headed toward the jetty and started to kick out, I saw the wave hit some backwash and jack up into a small tube. If I hadn't kicked out, I'd have been in that tube and woulda kicked out real close to the jetty. oh well, no barrels this year..... only a few good rides to keep the hook set....

swell from Danny was supposed to start filling in today, but we haven't seen it yet. unfortunately. the winds from Danny will arrive too. so, Friday will probably be blown out, and we may head out of here a day earlier.