Monday, August 18, 2008

Hatteras 1

Arrival evening, the tide was a little too fat with some easterly chop. I went out anyway at the house and it was better than it looked. A few other guys in the lineup, and I caught a few short moments of face time.
Was hoping for a low tide glassy session at dawn day 2, but it was already (or still) choppy and fat when I checked it at 0630. Followed my formula from last year, and waited for the tide flip and hit Frisco Pier where the wind was more offshore, but with very small gutless waves breaking on a chest-deep sandbar about 100 yards offshore.

If I planed my longboard up to speed, and got just right in the best spot of a wave, I could grab a second or two of open face before the whole section spilled into foam. Gutless, but at least worth a paddle. A lot of paddle for little. Serious, skilled surfers wouldn't have been caught dead in waves like this. Only a few old guys like me out.

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