Friday, September 28, 2007

Hatteras II

Back at the contest for the morning, and Jake got 3rd in his first heat and progressed to the final tomorrow. There was definitely some swell in the water today, looking a little like a groundswell, and even at high tide the contest surfers were getting some nice waves.

I went out at the old Coast Guard Station after Jake's heat and had the session of the week (of ever maybe??). It was low tide by then, still clean, and starting to get a little more hollow on the sandbars, much more so than these pics. I actually got barreled for the first time ever. Dropped in, pulled back up the face, stayed crouched, watched the curtain come over and in front of me, and then, popped out. Dammnnnn!! Even managed a clean exit out of the small tube onto some green face before the other end closed out and I kicked on out through the back. I was freakin' stunned. Stunned. In all these years of trying to surf, I'd only come close to this a few times in the past few seasons. And I never had illusions that I'd make it out of the first tube I ever got into.
Got close to getting there a few more times in the next hour and a half. They were all quick take-offs, and I got pitched on many of them, but caught a lot of good waves and seemed to have progressed a level. Many were close-outs, but they were all great practice on steep take-offs, which I certainly need. I was catching a lot more waves than usual, since there was virtually no paddling necessary. I was sitting right off the 3rd groin, and there was a strong rip right next to the groin that made the paddle back out a snap. But, even cooler, was that you could walk most of the way out to the lineup since they were breaking on a wide sandbar. And since the waves were kinda steep, the take-offs didn't require a lot of paddle speed. Just get in the right spot, and you were good.

Quigfoot dropped by with his rig on his way to Arizona to ride bikes with a couple friends. He rented a Fox 9-footer and caught a few good rides.

The surf forecast for tomorrow does not look good. Head-high, and strong, on-shore winds. The final day of the contest, and maybe our final day here.

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